Road trip diaries: Colombia

Photos: Magda Made and Caroline Rogers 

During our endless search for Colombian artisan goods, we’ve gone on many long road trips visiting gorgeous pueblos and hotelitos along the way. Some of our favorite stops are just a few hours from Bogotá and others, a bit more remote. Colombia is a huge country with one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world  - driving a few hours in any direction can feel like entering an entirely different country. We like to travel slowly; we try to spend at least 3-4 days in each place and we usually take long meandering walks, asking locals what to do,  see or eat, if there are any regionally specific crafts, and generally just take in as much as we can. Over the course of 3 years we have travelled to 14 of Colombia’s 32 different departments and still have only scratched the surface. If you have a couple of weeks you can have a beach vacation,  jungle adventure, and charming-colonial-town getaway all in the same trip. At the risk of sounding like a commercial tagline: Colombia really does have it all. 

Casa de la Estación & Casa Negra 

Tobia, Cundinamarca 

Only an hour and a half from Bogotá you’ll find Tobia, a small town surrounded by hillside sugar cane fields. Just on the edge of the quaint town is Casa de la Estacion, named for its prior life as a station house for the railroad that ran to the Atlantic coast. The hotel maintains its historic feel with 6 beautifully simple rooms that feature the high ceilings and spacious layout of the original station house. The decor is serene and chic with nods to its Colombian heritage tucked in each corner. The house is perched on the banks of the Rio Negro; you can sit in a hammock or relax in the pool watching the river roll by. Nearby is the new Casa Negra, a strikingly modern, 3-sided bungalow situated in what feels like the depths of the jungle but in reality is only 10 minutes from the center of Tobia. It is a true oasis complete with a saltwater pool and an outdoor patio equipped with a sink, fridge, fire pit, and grill. Truly unlike anything we have ever seen. The area is famed for outdoor adventure, particularly white water boating as two large rivers - Rio Negra and Rio Tobia - run through the area. 

Hotel Hacienda Baza

Tibana, Boyacá 

Driving from Bogota it will take you about 4 hours to reach Hotel Hacienda Baza. A large part of the drive is through winding agricultural land and small farm towns - an ideal way to see how beautiful the department of Boyaca is. Hotel Hacienda Baza is, as the name suggests, an old hacienda whose origins date back to 1638. The Spanish colonial-style compound consists of large, lush courtyards, a stone pool, rooms with fireplaces, and decor that echoes its historical significance. Our favorite part is the lounge area - two large fireplaces, loads of candles and moody lighting, plus plush sofas and the best gin and tonics. Tibana, the nearest town, is about 15 minutes away and doesn’t offer much for tourists, so plan to stay mostly on-site unless leaving for an excursion. The property includes hiking trails dotted with informational plaques on local plants as well as a badminton court and plenty of tranquil spots to sit among the bougainvilleas and read. And if you happen to be traveling with a pup, it's dog-friendly!

Casa Barichara 

Barichara, Santander 

Barichara is often considered the most beautiful town in Colombia and for good reason. Cobblestone streets and bougainvillea set against the backdrop of the Santander countryside make this town incredibly picturesque. Casa Barichara, located on the highest street in town, offers a secluded stay with incredible views. The 8 rooms are situated around a lush courtyard with tables and hammocks tucked into every corner. The pool and outdoor dining area is a tranquil space to take in the landscape or cool off on a hot day. Barichara is a popular destination for Colombian tourists and foreigners looking for an alternative to the more commonly traveled destinations. There are a number of great places to eat and some beautiful outdoor adventures to be had but the artisanry is our favorite aspect of Barichara. You can find ceramics, textiles, and jewelry all made locally. Our first stop is always the Taller de Papel (paper workshop) where native plants harvested onsite are processed and pressed into beautiful, handmade paper. 

Portal de la Marquesa

Mompox, Bolivar 

Traveling to Mompox takes a bit more planning but is worth the effort. Mompox is one of only 2 UNESCO world heritage towns in Colombia, the other being Old Cartagena. Situated on an island in the Magdalena River the journey to Mompox takes you through miles of tributaries and farmland and drops you in a town that feels secluded from the rest of the world. Mompox (pronounced Momposh) served as a resting port for boats traveling to Cartagena and the city’s waterfront is still at its heart. Today the riverfront street hosts hotels, an iconic yellow church, and a handful of shops and restaurants. Portal de la Marquesa is a beautiful hotel with only a handful of rooms that are located around a central courtyard. Along the walls and around the commons areas you will get a sense of the history of Mompox with large colonial-era paintings and locally made crafts. Wandering the streets you’ll find many small shops specializing in filigree - incredibly detailed jewelry made with threads of silver and gold, it is a traditional metalwork with a long history in Mompox dating back to Spanish rule. The town is small and walkable entirely on foot. Take a boat tour along the river with a local guide and enjoy freshly caught fish in one of the restaurants overlooking the water.

Casa Lelyte

Bogota, D.C.

If traveling internationally, visiting Colombia’s capital is usually a must, even if only for a day. High altitude, unpredictable weather, and over 11 million people can initially feel overwhelming but Bogota is filled with charming neighborhoods, a diverse gastronomy scene, and a dramatic Andes backdrop. One of our favorite spots to both eat and sleep is Casa Lelyte, a 4 room boutique bed and breakfast nestled in the hills of Chapinero Alto. Known for its plant-based dishes and unique cocktails, the quaint 1950’s home provides the perfect landing pad for your arrival in Colombia. The rooms upstairs are cozy and colorful with the first floor featuring a rotation of work by local artists and plenty of tropical plants surrounding the bar. And just a few blocks away are two more of our fave Bogota restaurants, Sorella and Cafe Bar Universal - both not to be missed.